The tale of two surfers......

Surfing has been one of those childhood dreams that I have had.  Even though I lived in Florida for 6 years before heading off for the ivory towers, I never learned how to ride the waves, but I always admired those that did.  I knew that they were seeking something more than just a thrill.  Surfers are also seeking a sense of serenity and balance that only those that surf can truly comprehend.  I remember on my morning beach runs taking a break and watching them paddle out over the breakers and hop on the small swells that we have on the Emerald Coast with ease.  I wanted so badly to be out there.  And now, years later after my return, Chris and I are finally taking on the waves together.

I must admit, it's a sport that is a lot more intense than I had imagined.  While in all reality 'doing less' will get you further progress on the board, it's definitely much easier said than done.  I am beginning to feel comfortable though out there on the board.  I bought a used 8'4" Blue fiberglass board and I feel confident when I paddle it out past the breakers.  On most days that is.  It's amazing how powerful the waves can be and though I try to 'duck' dive and 'turtle' dive my way out there, sometimes as I call it, the ocean simply just spits me back out.  And I go and take my designated spot on the beach with my board, a little water logged and wait for the ocean to accept me back. I get back up and continue onward past the breakers.  It's a fight, a battle in and of itself but once out there, it becomes more serene than I had imagined.  Peace, serenity and the openness of the ocean.  I feel slightly vulnerable but still in control as it is just me and my board patiently waiting to feel the energy of a wave underneath me that I can stand up on.  And there is the part that has of course brought me frustration, but also a new appreciation for patience. 

'Just stand up'.  That's all you have to do right?  Feel the wave and just stand up and ride it.  If only mastery came with that much ease.  I have done the half stand, the knee stand the stand and then fall after 2 seconds but still working towards the ultimate goal: riding the wave.  I can stand up on the 10ft. board with ease but the 8'4" board I have has proved to be a challenge for this beginner.  Chris and I have spent countless hours observing other surfers every move.  How do they paddle past the breaker, what is there timing when they begin paddling ahead of the wave, when do they stand up, do they ride it straight or take a side of the wave?  Of course not to my surprise, Chris has been the first  up on his board out of all of us and I couldn't be more proud of him.  He's a natural athlete what can I say?  I know my time will come, one session out there in the open ocean it will just click.  I only hope that that session is soon because I'd love to feel the satisfaction of the ride and not just the fall.  In due time though, in due time.

I absolutely love this quote that I found on a surfing blog.

"There are no more committed people on the planet than surfers. We fall down a lot. We turn around, paddle back out, and do it over and over again. Unlike anything else in life, the stoke of surfing is so high that the failures quickly fade from memory."
-Gary Sirota (surfer)


 It describes the epitome of what I have noticed in observing the surfer.  What other sport is it a requirement for you to constantly fall down, even when you are an expert.  I have snowboarded plenty but even the intermediate riders like myself can ride all day and sometimes not take a fall.  In surfing it's a requirement.  You have to fall down even on the most stellar wave in order to paddle back out there and catch the next one.  It's a sense of persistence, not fearing failure and the continual going down and getting back up process that makes me honor these individuals with the utmost respect.  And here is to Chris and I's journey in holding the coveted title of 'surfer'.....
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